Grand Seiko’s Legendary Entry-Level Automatic GMT Just Got Some Company

The two new GMTs also match the entry-level price of the iconic travel watch.

Two Grand Seiko watches with leather straps, one with a white dial and black strap, the other with a blue dial and blue strap.Grand Seiko

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Like its big brother, Seiko, Grand Seiko has an enormous catalog of watches. As a result, the brand’s releases can sometimes blend together and get lost in a sea of seemingly similar models.

But every now and then, a Grand Seiko watch breaks through the crowd to become an icon. The best-known is easily the SBGA211, better known as the Snowflake, a wintry-dialed, Spring Drive-powered, titanium stunner that ranks as one of the best everyday watches ever made.

Lacking a catchy nickname but right on the Snowflake’s heels in popularity is the SBGM221 (originally launched as the SBGM021 back when GS was still a subbrand of Seiko), an enthusiast-favorite automatic GMT that’s lauded for its wearable size, sharp finishing, aesthetically calming dial and, for Grand Seiko, its low price point.

Grand Seiko wristwatch with cream dial, silver hour markers, blue GMT hand, date window, and brown leather strap.
The SBGM221 is arguably Grand Seiko’s most iconic model after the Snowflake.
Grand Seiko

Now, the SBGM221 is getting some company in the form of two new automatic GMTs with the same movement, the same case, the same dial layout and, perhaps most critically, the same entry-level price tag.

The same, but different

There is a lot about these new GMTs — references SBGM255 “Snowdrop” and SBGM257 “Moondrop” — that’s the same as the SBGM221, and that’s a good thing.

First off, the elegant 39.5mm stainless steel case remains, with its rounded edges, surprisingly sharp lines and heavy use of Grand Seiko’s trademark Zaratsu polishing technique. The large box sapphire crystal can also still be found dramatically atop the dial, as can the exhibition caseback secured with six screws.

Also unchanged is the movement behind that sapphire caseback: the Caliber 9S66, a “flyer” GMT automatic with a full three-day power reserve and a stated accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds per day, which is slightly better than the COSC chronometer standard of -4 to +6 spd.

Two Grand Seiko wristwatches side by side, one with a dark blue dial and leather strap on a dark rocky surface, the other with a silver dial and black leather strap on snow.
Two new SBGM GMTs share the same case, movement and dial layout as the SBGm221.
Grand Seiko

The dial layout, wouldn’t you know it, is also the same. The faceted bar indices remain, with double bars at 12, 6 and 9, and a framed date window replacing the bulk of the index at 3. The printed minute track still runs around the edge of the dial, while the printed 24-hour ring once again appears on the inner portion of the dial, framing the applied GS logo at 12:00 and two lines reading “Automatic/GMT” at 6:00. The handset keeps its razor-sharp dauphine hour and minute hands and its iconic stubby arrow GMT hand.

Both the SBGM255 and SBGM257 are sold on crocodile leather straps with a steel deployant clasp, just like the SBGM221, but they switch out that watch’s brown strap for a black band on the Snowdrop and a navy strap for the Moondrop.

The only differences between these new GMTs and the SBGM221 comes down to the colors and dial finishing — the latter of which makes a big difference.

Silver Grand Seiko wristwatch with blue textured dial, yellow GMT hand, date window, and blue leather strap.
The SBGM257 “Moondrop” features a midnight-blue dial with gold accents.
Grand Seiko

Like many Grand Seiko watches, both of these new SBGM references are inspired by nature and the changing of seasons. The SBGM257 “Moondrop” takes inspiration from dew drops glowing in the moonlight during autumn evenings. It features a dark blue dial with a gold-tone GMT hand, matching the gilt color used to print the dial text and 24-hour scale.

The SBGM255 “Snowdrop” is influenced by the melting snow reflecting sunlight during the first days of spring. Fittingly, the dial is snow-white, and the GMT hand is heat-tempered blue, just like on the ivory-dialed SBGM221. But unlike on that icon, the 24-hour scale here is also printed in matching blue instead of black, giving a bit more of a uniform look to the design.

In the biggest change implemented on these new GMTs, both the SBGM255 and SBGM257 boast new textured dials, something missing from the flat-dialed SBGM221. The watches feature the same guilloché-like geometric spiral pattern, which GS says reflects light in ways that evoke the watches’ dew drop and melting snow inspirations.

Silver Grand Seiko wristwatch with textured white dial, black leather strap, and blue GMT hand.
Both of the new models feature the same textured dials featuring a geometric spiral pattern.
Grand Seiko

Pricing and availability

The SBGM221 will forever be an icon, but I might like the Moondrop and Snowdrop better. The patterned dials add some nice visual interest and better align with other textured, nature-inspired dials in Grand Seiko’s collection. Plus, both new watches have proper nicknames!

Critically, despite the textured dials, both watches are also priced the same as their predecessor at $5,400, meaning the Moondrop and Snowdrop are now tied with the SBGM221 as the cheapest non-quartz GMTs in Grand Seiko’s catalog.

The only bad news is you can’t get the watches quite yet. Both the SBGM255 Snowdrop and SBGM257 Moondrop will be available to purchase from Grand Seiko in December.

Silver Grand Seiko GMT watch with textured white dial, blue GMT hand, and black leather strap.Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko SBGM255 ‘Snowdrop’

Specs

Case Size 39.5mm
Movement Grand Seiko Cal. 9S66 automatic GMT
Water Resistance Splash-resistant

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