Huckberry Reinterprets a Legendary Carhartt Jacket in Waxed Canvas

How do you improve a jacket as tried-and-true as the Carhartt Detroit? Add a little wax.

Brown suede jacket with black quilted lining and black corduroy collar, partially unzipped.Huckberry

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Carhartt’s Detroit Jacket has inspired numerous collaborations and imitations, but few have achieved the functional and aesthetic versatility of the original.

Huckberry’s in-house apparel brand, Flint and Tinder, may have actually topped the American workwear icon by employing what has become its go-to material: waxed canvas.

Brown waxed cotton jacket with black corduroy collar and zippered chest pocket on green background.
The Waxed Mill Jacket is a clear homage to the Carhartt Detroit Jacket.
Huckberry

When Carhartt introduced the Zipper Jacket in 1954 — later renamed the Detroit Jacket in 1998 — it stumbled upon a perfect formula. It balanced details optimized for construction workers, such as a cropped body to sit above a tool belt and a sturdy duck canvas shell, with a sleek silhouette that looked good off the job.

Existing somewhere between a Harrington jacket and a barn coat, the Detroit Jacket became a symbol of American workwear and has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity over the past decade.

Man in brown jacket and gray cap holding a white mug and touching a black-and-white dog indoors.
The Waxed Mill Jacket has a slightly longer body than the Detroit Jacket.
Huckberry

It only makes sense, then, that the clever design team at Flint and Tinder would take it on as their next challenge. The brand has a strong track record of putting innovative twists on certified classics.

Just as the Waxed Trucker improved upon the Type III and the James improved upon the coach’s jacket, the Waxed Mill Jacket adds a few impactful updates to Carhartt’s much-loved design.

More than just waxed canvas

As the title implies, the most significant update that Flint and Tinder made to the Detroit blueprint is the substitution of duck canvas with the waxed variety.

Brown waxed canvas jacket with black quilted lining and zipper partially open on green background.
The Waxed Mill Jacket is made with 8-ounce Evolution 6 pure waxed cotton from British Millerian.
Huckberry

Interestingly, Flint and Tinder opted for British Millerain this time, rather than New Jersey’s Fairfield Textiles or Scotland’s Halley Stevenson, who have supplied most of the brand’s waxed canvas in the past. The shell and finishing details are made of 8-ounce Evolution 6 pure waxed cotton.

Close-up of a brown waxed cotton jacket cuff with black corduroy lining and metal snap buttons engraved with "Flint and Tinder.
The Waxed Mill Jacket features corduroy-lined cuffs and a diamond-quilted lining.
Huckberry

But Flint and Tinder added a few more details that may edge out the Detroit Jacket for some people. The cuffs are vented with snaps, but the Mill Jacket adds a corduroy lining to ease abrasion at high-contact points.

Carhartt updated the Detroit jacket to fit a bit longer in the body back in 2019, but the Waxed Mill Jacket extends even further past the waistline for a touch more coverage.

Since its introduction, the Detroit Jacket has had a cozy blanket lining, but Flint and Tinder adds a little more insulation with a diamond-quilted polyester satin lining.

Man in brown jacket and gloves holding trays of green sprouts near a wire fence with chickens behind it.
The Waxed Mill Jacket has a single zipper chest pocket.
Huckberry

When it comes to storage, this homage matches the original with dual welted hand pockets, a single zipper breast pocket and one interior patch pocket on the left-hand side. The familiar locker loop on the inside collar and adjustable snap waist tabs are also included.

Availability and price

Flint and Tinder appears to have successfully waxed another iconic piece of outerwear, adding a number of small but impactful improvements in the process.

Carhartt die-hards who are salty about the brand softening up the duck canvas on Detroit Jackets in recent years, despite the brand claiming it does not impact durability, may find a suitable alternative here.

The Flint and Tinder Waxed Mill Jacket is available now from Huckberry for $278, which is notably $20 less than the Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket.

At launch, it is only available in mahogany brown, but I expect more colors to come along next year.

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