When a conversation about quality bootmakers comes up, there are certain shoemakers that are bound to be mentioned. Red Wing, Viberg, Tricker’s and Clinch are just a few of the names which are lauded for their full-grain leathers, time-honored bootmaking techniques and Goodyear-welted constructions. But there a few small shoemakers that have been getting attention for their beautiful designs and focus on craftsmanship which would have any quality shoe enthusiast drawing their eyes away from the usual suspects, and they’re all from Southeast Asia.
Dutch rule over Indonesia introduced welted footwear to the region which eventually spawned generations of Indonesian shoemakers. At one point, the Cibaduyut region of Bandung was known as one of the largest shoemaking areas of Asia. Today, a young generation of shoemakers has continued the cordwaining ways, producing some of the finest shoes anywhere. Here are just a few of them.
Sagara hails from Indonesia and offers a wide range of footwear from rough-and-tough military reproduction boots to black-tie-ready bluchers. Their shoes are offered in premium leathers like Italian calfskin, bullhide, Japanese shell cordovan and more and are crafted in a variety of welt constructions including Norwegian storm welt and Goodyear welts. Sagara also offers a made-to-order program for customers to build their dream pair of boots.
Combatant I by Sagara Sold Out
Regent Boots by Sagara $640
Reyn Handgrade by Sagara $320
Legacy X by Sagara $360
Legatant by Sagara $450
Cordmaster by Sagara $288
Valiant by Sagara $235
Santalum was started in Indonesia in 2010 by two friends who couldn’t find quality shoes in their area. They started down the path of shoemaking and have since produced a line of boots centered around work boots with hand-stitched welted construction. Santalum has collaborated with American-retailer Pigeon Tree Crafting for a series of exclusive boots using stitchdown construction with indigo-dyed leather and Horween Chromexcel leather.
Plain Toe Service Boots by Santalum ~$135
Mile 85 Moc Toe Boots by Santalum ~$178
DIY Waxed Flesh Boot by PTC x Santalum $335
Horween Chromexcel Boots by PTC x Santalum $410
Junkard Company’s collection mainly consists of service-boot-style boots, but also includes moc-toe work boots, lace-to-toe oxfords, penny loafers and double monk chukkas. Junkard shoes and boots come in a range of welted construction methods including hand-stitched Goodyear, Norwegian and stitchdown. Their gamut of leathers features full-grain leathers, shell cordovan and several pull-up styles. Like Sagara, Junkard also has a robust made-to-order program that allows customers to choose the materials, the shoe style, the last and much more.
IMB Low by Junkard Company $550
NVCM Moc Toe by Junkard Company $299
LC219 by Junkard Company $255
Penny Loafer by Junkard Company $265
Double Monk Strap by Junkard Company $245
SC2078 by Junkard Company $265
Onderhoud Handmade focuses squarely on boots in workwear and military styles with lace-to-toe “monkey” boots, engineer boots, moc-toe boots and more. You’ll find hand-welted construction applied to full-grain veg-tan leathers, corded soles, stacked leather heels and leather midsoles. Onderhoud, like many of the shoemakers on this list, can be reached only through Whatsapp or Instagram DMs.
LCV01 by Onderhoud Handmade Price Upon Request
LCB01 by Onderhoud Handmade Price Upon Request
LCV02 Lineman Boots by Onderhoud Handmade Price Upon Request
Engineer Boots by Onderhoud Handmade Price Upon Request
SCB01 by Onderhoud Handmade Price Upon Request
LVL-01 by Onderhoud Handmade Price Upon Request
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