In watch spheres, the quartz vs. mechanical debate is contentious. On one hand quartz is, technically speaking, better in every measurable regard: more affordable, more accurate, easier and cheaper to produce and maintain. On the other hand, mechanical watches are ostensibly works of craftsmanship, meticulously put together and artistically superior in the little ways in which they function. Neither side is right or wrong, and both have their merits. But what if enthusiasts could have the best of both worlds — in the beloved chronograph, no less?
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Seiko Essentials Chrono SSB Read More -
Dan Henry 1964 Gran Turismo Chronograph Read More
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Yema Rallygraf Read More
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Brew 8-Bit Read More
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Vaer R1 USA Racing Chronograph Read More
While those looking for the “feel” of a mechanical watch have a variety of affordable, basic three-hand options, the mechanical chronograph is a "complication" and uses an intricate movement that requires more time and money to engineer — and they tend to be expensive. Quartz chronographs, however, are relatively simple to engineer. In a standard quartz watch, the electrical signal given off by the battery and quartz crystal drive a stepper motor. To add the chronograph function, more stepper motors are added to drive each hand on the chronograph movement. And in addition to being accurate and affordable, a stepper motor can pulsate at a very high frequency, allowing the chronograph to measure very small fractions of a second.
The downside? The quartz chronograph loses out on the so-called mechanical feel. For one, the pushers on a quartz chronograph lack the satisfying click of a mechanical’s. What’s more, a quartz chronograph’s hands slowly sweep back to the zero position when they reset, a process that takes a few seconds, whereas a mechanical chronograph instantly resets to zero.
What Is a Meca-Quartz Watch?
In the mid-to-late 1980s, in the midst of the so-called Quartz Crisis, two Swiss manufacturers, Frédéric Piguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre, attempted to correct these small foibles and contribute their own value to the rapidly growing quartz watch market by adding a mechanical component to a standard quartz chronograph. The watch’s standard time function was still run by a quartz-powered stepper motor. However, instead of having each hand of the chronograph movement powered by a separate stepper motor — as in a normal quartz chronograph — a single motor powered a set of connected gears that split its power among the chronograph functions. By using the connected mechanical components powered by one motor to drive all functions of the chronograph, the Swiss companies were able to bring back the clicking sensation in the pushers as well as the instant reset to zero.
These early mechanical quartz ("mecha-quartz," though more commonly stylized today as "meca-quartz") movements were used in a variety of luxury watches during the late ’80s and throughout the’90s. Frédéric Piguet’s meca-quartz movements powered a variety of watches from Breitling, Omega, Chopard and Bulgari. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s meca-quartz movements ended up in certain Jaeger-LeCoultre chronographs but were more commonly used in IWC and Porsche Design watches. The original Swiss meca-quartz watches never really caught on, fading into obscurity in the early 2000s.
The original meca-quartz may have made a small and somewhat strange footprint on watchmaking history, but Seiko has brought back its own version of the "hybrid" movement, which is used in a number of affordable chronographs from the brand. In Seiko watches the movements often have the name 6T64 (or 8T63 or similar), but Seiko has made a version available to independent, boutique watch startups for use in their own chronographs. There, you'll see it in its best known form as the VK64 (or similar).
Nowadays, more and more smaller companies are making use of this fun, affordable tech that marries the best of quartz watches with a little taste of the mechanical. Here are a few of our favorites:
The Best Meca-Quartz Watches Right Now
Seiko Essentials Chrono SSB
The Seiko SSB series of ultra-affordable chronograph watches make use of a Seiko-exclusive version of the meca-quartz movement, dubbed 6T63. This movement is housed in a 41mm stainless steel case that features a tachymeter scale and water resistance up to 100 meters. Coming in at under the $300 mark (or even under $200), the SSB series Seikos are a fantastic first chronograph for your collection.
- Diameter: 41mm
- Water Resistance: 100m
Dan Henry 1964 Gran Turismo Chronograph
Based on the famed racing chronographs of the 1960s, the Dan Henry 1964 Gran Turismo Chronograph is an homage watch through and through, but a Seiko VK63 meca-quartz movement keeps the price down. Featuring a vintage-inspired 38mm stainless steel case, sapphire-coated, double-domed mineral glass, date window, tachymeter, 60-min chronograph and 24-hour indicator, the Gran Turismo ships on a beads-of-rice bracelet and comes in a choice of four dial colors.
- Diameter: 38mm
- Water Resistance: 50m
Yema Rallygraf
The historic French brand Yema makes a range of dive- and aviation-themed watches with retro styling, but the Rallygraf is the brand's take on a racing chronograph. Powered by the Seiko VK64, it offers a vintage look with motorsport cues such as a tachymeter bezel and checkered flag. With a nicely sized 39mm case and several variations — including panda or reverse-panda contrasting subdials — this has to be one of the best-looking chronographs for the money.
- Diameter: 39mm
- Water Resistance: 100m
Brew 8-Bit
Brew’s Jonathan Ferrer used the espresso machine as inspiration for his brand, with hash marks on the dial to help you time the perfect espresso shot. Available in this playfully pixelated execution, the Retrograph features a 316L stainless steel, 38mm cushion case, Super LumiNova markers and hands, a 60-minute counter and a 24-hour indicator. It ships on a leather strap and, as many Brew watches, it uses the Seiko VK64 meca-quartz movement.
- Diameter: 38mm
- Water Resistance: 50m
Vaer R1 USA Racing Chronograph
We especially like the design and size of Vaer's meca-quartz chronograph. The collection comes in three different colorways and measures a welcome 38mm, but each also now comes in a 42mm version if you're looking for something bigger. There's even more available variety with a range of strap options and even a steel bracelet (+$100).
- Diameter: 38mm, 42mm
- Water Resistance: 50m
Hemel HFT20
The military-inspired chronograph gives you the look of a vintage Type 20 without the 5-figure price tag. With its 42mm stainless steel case, flat sapphire crystal and 100m of water resistance, it’s most certainly a modern watch but looks decidedly vintage. Best of all, you can choose between a ceramic 60-minute or a steel 12-hour bezel.
- Diameter: 42mm
- Water Resistance: 100m
Belmoto Track Day
Started by Dion McAsey, the same man who founded Magrette, Belmoto watches use Panerai Radiomir-shaped cases and add some retro motoring edge. The brand does both three-hand and chronograph watches, with the chronographs using the VK64 meca-quartz movement that Seiko ships to third-party watchmakers. One of the finest examples from the model range is the Track Day chronograph, in a PVD case finish and matte silver dial.
- Diameter: 42mm
- Water Resistance: 200m
Autodromo x Worn & Wound Prototipo LE
Autodromo is an automotive lifestyle brand that sells gloves and sunglasses, but watches were their first products and remain their bread and butter. The Prototipo chronograph was retired as a collection, but a collaboration with watch website Worn & Wound has resurrected it as a limited edition with a gunmetal IP finish and striking blue highlights. Using the same VK63 movement as the Dan Henry above, it's got a look entirely reminiscent of the boldly designed chronographs of the 1970s and effectively evokes the race cars of the same era.
- Diameter: 40mm
- Water Resistance: 50m
Furlan Marri Mechaquartz
A lot of watches on this list are in the affordable range, but Furlan Marri's Mechaquartz watches are going to feel like something high-end. And isn't "feel" what meca-quartz is all about? With 38mm cases that are 11.3mm thin and domed sapphire crystal, these are lovingly detailed, vintage-inspired chronographs that are packed with subtle sophistication — and VK64 movements, of course.
- Diameter: 38mm
- Water Resistance: 50m
