A James Bond film wouldn’t be complete without a cool watch, and for the past 25 or so years, that’s meant a cool Omega watch. For the fifth (and supposedly final) Daniel Craig entry in the franchise, the famed Swiss manufacturer upped the ante and delivered a special piece unlike any Bond watch seen before.
Whereas previous timepieces were largely chosen from Omega’s core collection, the new Bond watch is an original creation with a neo-vintage look. Worn in the movie on a mesh Milanese bracelet but also available on a special dark brown, grey and beige NATO strap, the new piece is a 42mm Seamaster Diver 300M manufactured in full titanium. With a rugged, military feel, it features “old radium”-style lume, a “black tropical” dial with a brown tone, a broad arrow marking on the dial and case back (used to indicate Crown property), and, best of all, it’s non-limited release, marking the first time a James Bond Omega product has seen full serial production.
Excitingly and in a first for the Bond franchise, Bond actor Daniel Craig worked personally with Omega for the past two years to help design the Seamaster. (He valued lightness and a vintage-inspired aesthetic, both of which are present in the new model.) Using inspiration from MOD-issued watches in Omega’s back catalog, the Omega team worked with Craig to perfect this aesthetic via the inclusion of “old radium”-style Super-LumiNova, present in the watch in blue-glowing indices and a green-glowing seconds hand. In addition to titanium construction, the watch features an aluminum bezel, flatter than its ceramic counterparts and 3x harder than standard anodized aluminum.
The design team wanted to maintain water resistance while reducing the case thickness, and to this end the watch is still water-resistant to 300m (its effective water resistance is closer to 425m, though the watch is only certified to 300m). Interestingly, the helium escape valve design is such that if the user forgets to screw the valve down, the watch remains water resistant to 50m.
Utilizing the Omega cal. 8806 movement, a Master Chronometer-rated power plant with a co-axial escapement and 55 hours of power reserve, the watch is extremely light, comfortable, and of course, incredibly accurate and robust. Devoid of a date, it makes use of clean lines for a thoroughly utilitarian, military-inspired look, and further, doesn’t ship in a box, but rather in a special watch roll made from waxed, water-resistant cotton with a nubuck inner lining — similar to the material in Barbour jackets and made by British firm British Millerain.
MSRP on a NATO strap is $8,100, while the Milanese bracelet-equipped version will run you $9,200. While this certainly doesn’t make for an inexpensive timepiece (the current no-date Submariner is $8,100 on an Oyster bracelet) — and especially one that isn’t limited — having seen the watch in person and considering its association with the franchise and its Master Chronometer-certified movement, the number doesn’t seem unreasonable given where luxury watch pricing has been heading.
Super light, vintage-inspired, handsome, technical and most importantly, highly robust, the new 42mm Seamaster Diver 300M featured in “No Time to Die,” the 25th James Bond adventure and Craig’s last, may be the best Bond watch yet.