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Two New Vintage-Inspired Watches Revive the Classic ‘Tuxedo Dial’

A beautiful design from the mid-20th century is getting a new lease on life.


Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) has moved online and Baselworld 2020 is canceled, but that hasn’t stopped watch brands large and small from debuting their new wares. Stay on top of this year’s best new watch releases here.

The vintage-remake craze in the watch industry has led to the rediscovery of all kinds of styles and themes from bygone eras, many of which were previously known only to dedicated collectors. The handsome new Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo, for instance, recreates two models produced in the 1940s that featured “tuxedo dials” — and it’s easy to see why they were thusly named.

It’s not because the look is exceedingly formal, of course, but rather because of its black and white color scheme. Specifically, both watches feature a silver center section surrounded by a black ring beneath the Arabic numeral hour markers. A little larger than their historical counterparts, the first of Longines’ new watches is a simple time-only with sub-seconds at 6 o’clock and a 38.5mm-wide case; the other is a chronograph measuring 40mm wide.

Both watches use ETA-based automatic movements with silicon hairsprings and extended power reserves (64 hours for the three-hander and 54 hours for the chronograph). The chronograph features a module developed especially for Longines. As a nod to collectors’ preferences and historical accuracy, neither model features the typical “automatic” wordage on the dial, nor a date display.

Both watches will come on appropriately handsome black leather straps, with a price of $2,000 for the time-only and $3,000 for the chronograph.

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