Blancpain’s Overlooked Dress Watch Gets Harder to Ignore

Small update, big difference.

Close-up of a Blancpain watch with a rose gold dial, silver Roman numerals, and a gray leather strap against a blue background.Blancpain

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There’s a saying in the watch industry that describes brands’ often lazy attempt at turning a men’s watch into a ladies’ watch: “Shrink it and pink it.”

The line is meant to be an insult, but in the case of Blancpain‘s new update to its underrated and overlooked Villeret Ultraplate men’s dress watch, it could be seen as words to live by.

That’s because Blancpain has shrunk the case of its three-hand, ultra-slim dress watch from a dinner plate-like 40mm to a more wearable 38mm, while also adding a gorgeous sunburst salmon dial option.

And the watch looks better than ever.

Silver wristwatch with a rose gold dial and black Roman numerals on a gray leather strap worn on a wrist over an open book.
A smaller salmon Villeret? Yes, please.
Blancpain

Shrink it and pink it

The new Villeret Ultraplate 38 comes in at a pleasant 38mm across, while the ultra-thin case slims down even more to a thickness of 8.35mm, down from 8.7mm on the 40mm version.

That thickness may seem fairly standard for a luxury dress watch, especially one labeled ultra-thin, but keep in mind the Villeret is an automatic, not a manually wound watch. This added convenience adds height to the case, as does the addition of a sapphire caseback, which the watch also has.

Through that display caseback, you get a clear view of the Blancpain Calibre 1150 automatic movement, which has a 100-hour power reserve, a silicon balance spring and measures just 3.25mm thick. It’s decorated to full haute horlogerie spec and features an 18K gold open-worked rotor.

Rose gold Blancpain wristwatch with visible mechanical movement and brown leather strap on a marble surface.
The in-house Blancpain movement is beautifully decorated and visible behind a sapphire caseback.
Blancpain

The dial comes in either a champagne opaline or the new sunburst salmon, the latter a first for the line. The hands and applied hour markers are all in 18K gold, with the three opaline-dial versions coming with either white, red or yellow gold dial furniture.

The salmon dial, however, features 18K gold hands and indices that are given a black finish. Blancpain frequently uses blackened gold in its watches, such as on the rotor of many Fifty Fathoms models, and I think it’s such a badass move to use gold and then cover it up so no one can tell it’s gold.

Silver Blancpain wristwatch with gold Roman numerals, white dial, date window, and green leather strap.
This version with yellow gold hands and indices is a boutique edition.
Blancpain

All models feature color-matched 3:00 date windows positioned inside the index, thin strips of Super-LumiNova on the hour and minute hands and polished cases with stepped bevels.

The cases are all in stainless steel, save for the opaline dial with red gold indices, which comes in a matching 18K red gold case. The steel version with yellow gold indices on an olive-green strap is a boutique exclusive.

The straps are also pretty cool, if I say so myself. They’re made of sueded nubuck alligator leather and feature not one but two quick-release systems. One allows you to remove the strap from the watch, and another lets you swap out the deployant clasp. Both can be activated without the use of any tools.

Three Blancpain wristwatches with Roman numeral dials and leather straps displayed on beige stone blocks.
The three non-boutique versions of the new 38mm Villeret.
Blancpain

Availability and pricing

With its smaller case size, and especially that sunburst salmon version in steel with blackened gold indices, the Villeret Ultraplate has gotten considerably harder to ignore. Anyone in the market for a thin and classy automatic luxury dress watch from brands like Patek and Vacheron would be a fool not to at least consider this Blancpain.

The three steel versions, which include the salmon dial and the boutique exclusive, are all priced at $12,700. The red gold model is obviously much more expensive at $26,100. All are available now from Blancpain’s boutiques and ADs.

Round silver Blancpain wristwatch with rose gold dial, Roman numerals, date window, and gray alligator leather strap.Blancpain

Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 38mm

Specs

Case Size 38mm
Movement Blancpain Cal. 1150 automatic
Water Resistance 30m

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