One of the Most Underrated Dive Watches Just Got Harder to Ignore

Tougher, stealthier, better.

Close-up of a black Marinemaster dive watch with textured dial, white hour markers, and a date window showing 13 on an orange background.Fortis

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One of the most underrated Swiss watch brands, without question, is Fortis. A specialist in luxury-level tool watches, Fortis sends watches to space, uses custom movements from Tudor’s Kenissi manufacture, and generally makes some of the toughest and most purpose-built watches in their respective categories.

Most of the attention that Fortis does get centers around its space-worn chronographs, namely the Cosmonaut,which has evolved into the Novonaut in the brand’s current catalog. But Fortis also makes an absolutely killer dive watch in the Marinemaster, (not to be confused with the Seiko diver of the same name.)

If the Marinemaster hasn’t gotten your attention yet, then Fortis’s latest take on the watch might finally do the trick, as this thing is simply too good to ignore.

Black Fortis wristwatch with textured dial, white hour markers, and black rubber strap on a dark textured surface.
Fortis’s latest Marinemaster is its toughest yet.
Fortis

The tough get going

The Marinemaster is one of the very first modern dive watches, with a history dating back to 1954, just one year after the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner established the genre. It is an impressive dive watch, especially the larger 44mm version, the M-44.

The M-44 is water-resistant to a beastly 500m, thanks in part to its use of performance-spec FKM rubber gaskets, including three in the screw-down crown. The bezel is Fortis’s proprietary Gear Bezel, which rotates 120 clicks in both directions and has a locking mechanism accessed via the crown at 10:00.

The M044 is powered by a Kenissi manufacture automatic movement, the Fortis Calibre Werk 11, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and is a COSC-certified chronometer.

Two black Fortis Marinemaster wristwatches with textured dials and rubber straps resting on beige rocks.
There are two colors for the Marinemaster M-44 DLC: Gravity Black and Black Resin.
Fortis

This all adds up to a seriously tough and capable tool watch, but now Fortis has gone and made the Marinemaster M-44 even tougher by adding a DLC coating to its stainless steel case. But this isn’t just any DLC coating.

It’s manufactured by Dianoir, which is known for its coatings’ extremely high resistance to damage. This DLC coating is heat-resistant to 500°C, highly resistant to abrasion and salt water, and around 20 times more scratch-resistant than typical stainless steel with a hardness rating of 4,500 Vickers.

Black wristwatch with textured dial, gold hour markers and hands, and black rubber strap worn on a wrist.
The Dianoir DLC case is around 20 times more scratch-resistant than stainless steel.
Fortis

Outside of the obvious exterior upgrade, the new Marinemaster M-44 DLC maintains the stylish design of its siblings. The watch keeps its integrated FKM rubber strap with a waffle pattern to match its textured dial, a combo that’s always reminded me a bit of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut, and it features Super-LumiNova X1 on the hands, indices, bezel pip and on a ring around the dial.

There are two colorways for the M-44 DLC. First is Gravity Black. It’s the more contemporary of the two, pairing its black DLC case and bezel with a black strap, black dial and silver-tone hands and applied indices filled with white lume for a very monochromatic look. The other colorway, Black Resin, offers up more of a vintage vibe with gold-tone hands and applied indices, gold writing on the minute track and fauxtina lume.

Close-up of a Fortis Marinemaster M-44 Chronometer watch face with black textured dial and white markers.
Gravity Black is the more contemporary of the two colorways.
Fortis

Availability and pricing

Fortis’s rugged new diver is available now from the brand now in both the Gravity Black and Black Resin colorways. Personally, I prefer the former, as I think the modern look is a better match for what is a very contemporary and technologically advanced diver.

Regardless of which style you choose, you’ll pay the same price of $5,450, which includes taxes and duties.

Black Fortis Marinemaster M-44 chronometer watch with textured dial and rubber strap.Fortis

Fortis Marinemaster M-44 DLC

Specs

Case Size 44mm
Movement Fortis Cal. Werk 11 automatic (Kenissi)
Water Resistance 500,

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