Doxa is best known for its bright orange-dialed Sub 300T, launched in the late 1960s as a professional dive watch and considered one of the most iconic dive watches ever made.
But it’s not the Swiss brand’s only legendary diver from the era. In 1969, Doxa was enlisted by the Swiss Army (yes, that’s a real fighting force and not just a type of multifunctional pocket knife) to develop a watch for its combat divers.
The result was the Doxa Army, an exceedingly rare military dive watch that swapped the Sub 300T’s “pick me” orange for a more subtle tan dial with a black “checkerboard” minute track and a matte-black case whose color was created by literally dipping the case in oil and then heating it.
A rare watch to begin with, very few examples of the legendary Doxa Army survive today. However, Doxa has returned to the style with a 100-piece limited edition in black ceramic in 2022 and an ongoing series in stainless steel since 2023.
Now, with some help from Hodinkee, Doxa has brought back the Army once more, this time in the more compact Sub 200T case for the first time.
