A Fan-Favorite Dive Watch Enters Surprising New Territory

For such a young brand, Serica sure has a strong design identity. The French independent brand, established just seven years ago in 2019, makes watches that look like nothing else on the market. Sterile dials, unique index layouts, innovative bracelets, optional destro crowns and no dates on any of their watches.

That last one was perhaps Serica’s most controversial design decision, with the brand so committed to symmetrical design that they had sworn off dates on all of their watches, including their GMT. Who’s ever heard of a travel watch without a date?

But as of today, Serica’s dateless era is over. The brand has launched its first watch with a date, the Ref. 5330 Diving Chronometer Date. And it looks absolutely spectacular.

Serica

Save the date

At first glance, the Ref. 5330 is simply Serica’s tried-and-true dive watch with a date added, but there’s actually a bit more going on here.

First, I’ll start with the date, as that’s the most obvious new addition and the most important. It sits in a traditional, unframed 3:00 window. I’m a little surprised at the placement, as I assumed a 6:00 date would better fit with the brand’s symmetrical leanings, but it looks like Serica’s other love, mid-century watch design, won out here.

The date’s numerals are in red, offering a nice dash of contrast on an otherwise monochrome watch. It’s worth noting that every date is printed in red; there’s no need to wait for the fun colors every other day like on a roulette date wheel.

Serica

To maintain the watch’s legibility with the addition of the date, Serica has moved the Diving Chronometer’s minute track closer to the center of the dial, slightly elongating the markings. The watch also debuts a new matte black dial, replacing the glossy enamel dials found on the brand’s other divers. This, too, was done to amplify legibility.

The bezel has also gotten a slight but welcome makeover. It retains its two-piece, dual-function setup, with the inner steel portion displaying 12 hours for tracking a second time zone and the outer ceramic insert being a traditional dive-time bezel.

However, the outer scale has lost the countdown markings that previously appeared from 45 to 0, offering a much cleaner, more symmetrical look and making up for the lost symmetry on the dial. The polished ceramic insert also debuts a new color in anthracite-gray.

Serica

The movement inside remains a COSC-certified Soprod Calibre M100 automatic, but now with a date. Because of the date, this is also the first Serica diver without the option of a left-hand crown — it’s right-hand or nothing.

Despite the addition of a complication, the stainless steel case remains unchanged, with the same dimensions as before. At 39mm across, 12.mm thick and 46.5mm from the tip of one twisted lug to the opposite one, the Diving Chronometer remains as sleek and wearable as ever. It also retains its 300m water resistance and 50,000 A/m magnetic resistance.

The Ref. 5330 includes one bracelet and one strap. The first is the same tapering steel mesh “Vesper” bracelet with integrated, articulating end links you’ll find on other Diving Chronometers. The second is a Polar White Serica PLD strap, a type of elastic hook-and-loop strap. It has a red stripe, complementing the date window.

Serica

Availability and pricing

Man, does Serica make good-looking watches or what? I’ll be honest, I’ve always found the Diving Chronometer to be the least visually arresting of Serica’s four model families, but this date model has me rethinking things. This might be the first time I’ve ever preferred a date diver to the no-date version, but the pop of red, larger minute track and cleaner bezel have converted me.

Maybe next we can get a date on the Travel Chronometer? Serica, you have the technology. Make it happen.

As for the Ref. 5330, it’s available now on Serica’s website and is priced at $2,001 (I guess The Price Is Right contestants set the brand’s prices?) on a short or standard length bracelet. The watch is expected to ship in May, with the initial batch limited to just 200 pieces.

Serica

Serica Ref. 5330 Diving Chronometer Date

Specs

Case Size	39mm
Movement	Soprod Cal. M100 automatic
Water Resistance	300m

• $2,001 at Serica

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