This Pioneering Diving Chronograph Watch Is Back and Better Than Ever

Just take a little off the sides.

Close-up of a stainless steel dive watch bezel with orange minute markers and a black dial against a blue ocean background.Doxa

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Doxa boasts one of the most dedicated fan bases of any small, independent watch brand. Its combination of unmistakable design language and rich history is rarely found outside of the luxury market.

The Swiss watchmaker’s newest release perfectly embodies both of those elements. It is a sequel to one of Doxa’s most coveted archival designs, remaining visually faithful to the original while introducing a more wearable case.

Stainless steel Doxa T.Graph II SUB 200 Sharkhunter wristwatch with black dial and metal bracelet on wooden surface.
The T.Graph II mirrors the dial and bezel of the original exactly.
Image by Brad Lanphear for Gear Patrol

The new SUB 200 T.Graph II descends from one of the first purpose-built chronograph dive watches. Its dial and bezel are nearly identical to the original and follow the same collection iconography as the SUB 300 and SUB 200 T.

When the original T.Graph was introduced in 1969, it was a novel idea to add the stopwatch complication from automotive and aeronautical tool watches to a diver. It allowed you to track elapsed time above the water’s surface with a chronograph and below with Doxa’s patented dual-scale bezel.

Seven stainless steel Doxa wristwatches with various dial colors and metal bracelets displayed on a light gray surface.
The new T.Graph II collection with a vintage T.Graph I, center-left with the silver dial.
Image by Brad Lanphear for Gear Patrol

The T.Graph II makes a few notable improvements upon the original without disrupting the look that Doxa fans pine for. It incorporates a trimmed-down case, a new movement and two of Doxa’s modern straps.

It launches with four of Doxa’s standard dial colors: the steel Searambler, orange Professional, black Sharkhunter and blue Caribbean.

Reflecting pool

I’ve was fortunate enough to spend time with the T.Graph II twice before it launched. Our first encounter was a sneak peek in April, where prototypes were displayed alongside a vintage T.Graph.

Doxa got the dial and bezel so close to the original that only the Roman numeral two on the new dial and some patina on the old one revealed their identities.

Silver DOXA T.Graph II SUB 200 searambler watch with orange and black hands and a metal link bracelet.
The T.Graph II dial is a direct copy of the original 1696 design.
Image by Brad Lanphear for Gear Patrol

The T.Graph II features Doxa’s signature dial with printed baton hour markers, asymmetrical hour and minute hands, a dash seconds track and the brand and model printed 11:00 and 5:00. The hands and hour markers are enhanced with Super-LumiNova.

To accommodate the chronograph complication, the central seconds hand is arrow-tipped, the framed date window is rotated to 6:00 and dual subdials are added. The 30-minute totalizer at 3:00 has five-minute color segments on its track and an arrow-tipped hand, while the small seconds at 9:00 features a square lollipop hand.

Trimming and swimming

The most impactful update to the long-awaited sequel to Doxa’s first diver chronograph is the case size. It retains the customary elliptical cushion shape but is streamlined to fit more comfortably on the wrist.

Stainless steel wristwatch with black dial, chronograph subdials, and metal link bracelet on a wooden surface.
The T.Graph II cushion case is smaller than the original, measuring 42mm wide, 14.6mm tall and 44.5mm lug-to-lug.
Image by Brad Lanphear for Gear Patrol

The T.Graph II measures 42mm wide, 14.6mm tall and 44.5mm lug-to-lug. That’s down one millimeter, half a millimeter and 2.5mm, respectively.

I got to try on the vintage T.Graph, and it is an absolute unit on the wrist. The new T.Graph II is still chunky by modern chronograph standards, but lays more naturally on the wrist.

The crown is identical to the original, but the button-style pushers stick out a bit further, making them easier to engage. There is a tactile pleasure to feeling and hearing the click of the chronograph, matched only by the firm clicks of the unidirectional rotating bezel.

Silver dive watch with black dial, orange and white hands, two subdials, and black strap on a wrist.
The new 42mm case sits more comfortably on the wrist.
Image by Brad Lanphear for Gear Patrol

Along with the trimmed-down T.Graph II case comes a new movement, the Sellita Caliber SW510 BH a automatic. It is a cam-style chronograph that beats at 4Hz and provides a 56-hour power reserve.

Ready to dive

The other big functional improvement made to the T.Graph II is the strap. It is offered on two of Doxa’s standard options: the steel “beads of rice” bracelet and the fitted rubber strap.

Both feature the brand’s signed folding clasp with a built-in sliding diving extension. This feature allows the watch to fit over a wetsuit sleeve and doubles as a micro-adjustment.

Stainless steel watch bracelet with a clasp engraved with "DOXA" on a wooden surface.
Both the steel bracelet and rubber strap come with Doxa’s sliding diving extension clasp.
Image by Brad Lanphear for Gear Patrol

Availability and pricing

After spending some time with the T.Graph II, I’m admittedly obsessed. It is an unapologetic retro tool watch that ticks every box for vintage diver fans. The new size, movement and straps make it relevant in the modern market, while the look is respectfully untouched.

The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II is now available for pre-order from Doxa for $4,290 on a steel bracelet and $4,250 on a rubber strap, with orders expected to ship out in late June.

Stainless steel wristwatch with black dial, white and orange chronograph subdials, and a metal link bracelet.Doxa

Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II

Specs

Case Size 42mm
Movement Sellita Caliber SW510 automatic
Water Resistance 200m

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