Doxa’s Best Daily-Wearing Dive Watch Goes Against the Grain in the Best Way

The watch industry is as trend-driven as the fashion industry and follows a similar cyclical pattern. One of the major prevailing trends of the past few years is a return to smaller case sizes like those of the 1950s and 1960s.

Another parallel with the fashion industry is that one of the best ways for a brand to stand out is to head in the opposite direction. Doxa has done just that with the sequel to its entry-point watch, the new SUB 200 II.

Doxa

Like the denim brands selling slim-fit jeans in 2026, Doxa is partying like it’s 2009 with the sized-up SUB 200 II. It retains the elliptical steel case of the original SUB 200, along with most other details, but presented in a 44mm size.

That was standard issue for a daily-wearing diver 15 years ago, but goes against the grain these days. However, in a casual conversation last fall, Oris CEO Ralf Studer revealed to me that the brand’s American sales still skew toward larger divers, so the demand is there.

Doxa

There is a pragmatic element to the move as well. Doxa is as serious about diving as any watch brand out there, and the SUB 200 II is still a specialized tool watch first and foremost. Accordingly, a larger dial means better legibility underwater.

The SUB 200 II serves as an expansion to the original SUB 200 collection, which was updated less than a year ago and isn’t going anywhere. It looks remarkably similar but, in addition to a larger size, comes in a different color assortment.

If it ain’t broke…

Aside from being two millimeters wider and one millimeter thinner, the SUB 200 II case is identical to its predecessor, featuring an elliptical shape with a prominently chamfered edge running lug-to-lug.

The handset is also identical, with fencepost hour and minute hands featuring two lume blocks in the former and one in the latter for low-light legibility. There are applied dash hour markers, a printed minute track and a beveled, framed date window at 3:00.

Doxa

Where the SUB 200 II plots its own course is with color and texture. It is the first Doxa collection to feature sunburst brushing on every dial option, as well as multiple regular-production fumé dials.

The Sea Emerald color, which is the only sunburst SUB 200 option, is darker in the new collection. Doxa’s classic black Sharkhunter and blue Caribbean motifs are especially fetching with radial brushing added.

Unlimited editions

Doxa’s design ethos includes presenting the same six to eight dial colors throughout almost every collection, which is part of what endears the brand to so many fans. However, by shirking that convention, the SUB 200 II collection is now the brand’s best option for all-purpose, daily wear.

Doxa

Along with the variations to the classic Sharkhunter, Caribbean and Sea Emerald dials, the SUB 200 II offers regular-production versions of two recent limited-edition releases.

First, there is the Sharkhunder Vintage, a charcoal gray dial with a fumé fade and sunburst brushing. It is nearly identical to the SUB 200 Grande Roma sold exclusively by an Italian watch dealer earlier this year and limited to just 50 pieces.

Sharkhunter Vintage is the only SUB 200 II that offers two bezel options: black or a dial-matched brushed smoky gray.

Doxa

Then there is the Redcoral motif, featuring a black DLC case and bezel, a burgundy sunburst dial and black DLC hands. It is the only SUB 200 II with white Super-LumiNova in the hands and indices, rather than Old Radium.

This color scheme matches the SUB 300 Beta Ceramic Dubai Watch Week 2025, which was nearly impossible to acquire, with only 11 pieces produced.

Where the other four dials are offered on a steel mesh bracelet or a perforated rubber strap color-matched to the dial, the Redcoral is available with a black DLC steel mesh bracelet, a black rubber strap or a burgundy rubber strap.

Availability and pricing

I personally wouldn’t choose the new SUB 200 II for daily wear because it would look like a dinner plate on my dainty wrist, but I appreciate how anyone who prefers larger watches could consider it the best all-purpose Doxa.

Regardless of size preference, it certainly offers the best assortment of dial options in the brand’s catalog. I hope we see more sunburst brushing and fumé fading in the future.

The Doxa SUB 200 II is available for preorder now from Doxa for $1,750 on a steel bracelet and $1,690 on a rubber strap. The black DLC Redcoral costs a bit more, going for $1,890 on DLC steel and $1,790 on rubber. Orders start shipping out in May 2026.

Doxa

Doxa SUB 200 II

Specs

Case Size	44mm
Movement	Sellita Caliber SW200 automatic
Water Resistance	200m

• $1,750 at Doxa

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