The U.S. Military’s Most Enduring Sneaker Has Never Looked Cleaner

The sneaker that bridged boating and battle is back — with a distinctly modern edge.

Pair of canvas shoes with black rubber toe caps, one navy blue and one olive green, on a light green background.Beams Plus

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As first spotted by Hypebeast, Sperry and Beams Plus are at it again, revisiting one of the most quietly influential sneakers ever made.

The CVO (Circular Vamp Oxford) isn’t just a relic of early casual footwear — it’s a design that helped shape both modern deck shoes and military-issued sneakers, earning its place as one of the most foundational silhouettes of the 20th century.

This latest collaboration doesn’t just nod to that history — it leans into it. While past iterations have often emphasized the shoe’s clean, off-white canvas origins, this release pushes the CVO further into its military lineage, even if it means straying from the exact look of the originals.

Refining an icon

Pair of olive green and navy canvas Sperry Top-Sider lace-up shoes with black soles viewed from above.
What started out as a safety play for boaters in 1935 soon became standard issue for Navy sailors and pilots in 1941.
Beams Plus

The CVO’s origin story is often flattened into military lore, but it actually starts on the water.

As well-trod origin story goes, Paul Sperry first developed his non-slip rubber outsole for civilian boating in the 1930s after a harrowing experience slipping off his own boat at night.

That same grippy foundation and pared-down canvas construction were later adapted into the CVO and pitched to the U.S. Navy, where it would see widespread use during World War II.

Pair of beige canvas sneakers with black soles on a textured gray surface.
The original CVO was defined by its off-white raw canvas and black outsole. Many modern reinterpretations of shoes still mimic this look, including this version from Beams America, launched in late 2024.
Beams America

In the decades since, that DNA has been reinterpreted countless times. Sperry has revisited the model repeatedly, including previous collaborations with Beams Plus, while a wide range of brands have chased the same stripped-down formula — from Anatomica’s Wakouwa deck shoes to The Real McCoy’s faithful reproductions.

Even newer interpretations like Sperry’s Japan-made CVOs underscore just how enduring — and imitated — the silhouette remains.

Close-up of the inside sole of a Sperry Top-Sider shoe with "Safety Sole" and "Designed in the USA" text.
As with previous Beams x Sperry CVO collaborations, authentic details of this new revival include a special logo and hand-stamped design inspired by vintage military contractor labels.
Beams Plus

What makes this latest Beams Plus take stand out isn’t a radical redesign, but a shift in tone — literally.

Instead of the classic undyed canvas look, the collaboration leans into dark, blackish navy and olive shades more commonly associated with modern military uniforms and tactical gear.

It’s a subtle move, but one that reframes the shoe’s lineage through a contemporary lens, even if it departs from the off-white simplicity of the originals.

Close-up of olive green canvas sneakers with black rubber soles and matching laces on a wooden floor.
While it wasn’t the original shoe’s color, the new olive green shade aligns well with military aesthetics.
Beams Plus

It’s also a reminder of how far the shoe has traveled. The people who helped bring the CVO into military service likely never imagined it would one day be reworked by a Japanese label and sold as a considered fashion piece — let alone one that treats its history with this level of precision.

Availability and pricing

Close-up of black canvas sneakers showing stitching and rubber sole edge.
The new limited collab is set to release on Saturday, May 5th.
Beams Plus

The collaboration is set to release on Saturday, May 5, arriving through retailers that carry Beams Plus as well as the Beams official online shop.

Pricing has not been widely confirmed at the time of writing, but it’s expected to align with previous Beams Plus collaborations, which typically sit at a premium over standard inline releases.

As with most limited-run Beams Plus offerings, availability is likely to be constrained. Between selective distribution and steady demand for heritage-driven collaborations, this is the kind of drop that won’t linger for long — especially for anyone hoping to secure a pair outside of Japan.

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