New Balance’s New Sneaker Looks Unlike Anything It’s Ever Made

Combining ’70s geometry, Y2K aesthetics and outdoor utility.

Pair of blue and black New Balance sneakers shown from the back on a gradient gray-green background.

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By Ethan Brehm

Published 5 hours ago

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Over the past decade, New Balance’s catalog has been largely defined by heritage runners and chunky dad shoes.

Instead of following trends, the Boston-based footwear brand has been staying true to its own design ethos. That’s why when New Balance does venture outside the box, we take notice even more so.

Pair of blue and black New Balance running shoes with mesh and synthetic overlays and reflective details. — Going against the chunky grain, the new 204V is a slim lifestyle shoe that looks unlike anything else in the catalog.

One such “radical” design comes in the way of the new 204V. Taking cues from last year’s 204L, this unusual silhouette is almost anti-New Balance in every way.

Pair of black and orange New Balance running shoes viewed from above. — The sneakers ditch the laces entirely in favor of a Velcro closure and slip-on design.

Laceless accusations

The first thing you’re likely to notice with the 204V is its lack of laces. Joining the ranks of the Fresh Foam X 1080 Unlaced and the 1906L Loafer, this mary jane-style shoe ditches laces altogether. However, it’s unusual in the sense that it’s not a mule or sneaker loafer or recovery slide, but a low-profile lifestyle shoe.

The geometry of the shoe takes cues from ’70s racing flats, while the upper aesthetic is very much based on Y2K running shoes.

New Balance

Instantly recalling ‘70s-era racing flats, the 204V brings together all kinds of inspiration here. Unlike the brand’s uber-thick Abzorb-based midsole models, it rides on a thin EVA to go along with the slim design. You could easily stuff these in your gym bag without worrying about them getting crushed.

On the other hand, the upper design is total Y2K. Just like the 204L, the “V” shares the same multi-layered mesh panel layout and overall tech-forward aesthetic. You’ll also notice the slanted “N” logo on the side, just like the 204L as well.

Both eras collide on the outsole. According to the brand, it features a “2000s-inspired strike path and 70s-influenced tread pattern.”

Black and blue rubber shoe sole with textured grip and "new balance" branding in the center. — New Balance says the outsole combines a 2000s-inspired strike path with a ’70s-style tread pattern.

Climb disease

Pushing the 204V into new territory is its climbing influence. Rather than looking at rugged hiking boots, New Balance extracted subtle functional elements from the world of approach shoes.

Pair of black and orange New Balance running shoes with mesh and synthetic overlays and reflective details. — The silhouette also gets some inspiration from the world of climbing shoes, especially with the Velcro closure and rand-like overlays that lock in your foot.

The most obvious impact is found on the absence of laces, which are replaced by an adjustable single-strap Velcro closure that wraps across the bridge of the foot. Likewise, the overlays feature arced lines that wrap around the shoe, mimicking the reinforced rands that lock your foot in place.

Availability and pricing

Debuting in Fan Blue and Neo Flame colorways, the 204V lands July 15 on New Balance’s website. Pricing sits at $120.

New Balance 204V

$120 at New Balance

About the Author: Ethan Brehm is an associate editor at Gear Patrol writing about footwear, watches, spirits, EDC and more. When he’s not shopping for his next G-Shock, he spends his time watching movies and planning a future road trip with his family. He firmly believes CDs sound better than vinyl.

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