This Affordable Swiss Brand Hits a New High with a Sharp Blacked-Out Sports Watch

This brand just keeps raising the bar.

Close-up of a black watch bracelet with brushed and polished links on a dark reflective surface.Formex

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Among affordable brands, Swiss independent watchmaker Formex has a distinct advantage.

That’s because the brand’s owners, the Granito family, also own two other Swiss watchmaking companies: Dexel, which makes cases, bracelets and clasps, and Cadranor, which produces dials. Both companies make parts for brands that sell well above Formex’s price point — think Girard-Perregaux, Hublot, Ulysse Nardin … even Jacob & Co.

Because they’re all part of the same company, Formex can use Dexel and Cadranor as its in-house parts suppliers, allowing the brand to offer higher-quality cases, bracelets, clasps and dials than expected for the money (Formex’s watches are all currently priced below $5,000).

And never has Formex’s corporate advantage been more evident than on the brand’s latest offering, the Essence Ceramica Dark Matter.

Ceramic Formex Essence Chronometer watch with textured dark dial and metal bracelet on a black gradient background.
Behold what is arguably Formex’s best watch yet.
Formex

Dark and mysterious

Earlier this year, Formex introduced the Essence Ceramica — a fully ceramic version of the brand’s flagship Essence sports watch. Even before it got the ceramic treatment, the original steel Essence was already a significant watch thanks to its patented Case Suspension System, which incorporates four springs between the top and bottom of the case that work to absorb shocks and help the watch conform better to the wrist.

The Case Suspension System is exclusive to Formex and the Essence, but the Ceramica added another feature you can’t get anywhere else. It introduced the industry’s first fully ceramic microadjustable clasp, allowing the wearer to adjust the fit of the bracelet on the fly without relying on any non-ceramic parts — an impressive achievement.

Both the case suspension system and the ceramic clasp are the domain of Dexel, but for the Dark Matter, Formex decided to bring a new challenge to its dial-manufacturing partner, Cadranor. The watch features a meteorite dial made from a slice of the Muonionalusta meteorite. That in itself isn’t unique, but the treatment given to the dial is.

Close-up of a black watch clasp with a push-button release and a subtle logo on top.
The Essence Ceramic features the world’s only microadjustable clasp in full ceramic.
Formex

The dial has been given a dark-nickel electroplating treatment that not only allows the meteorite’s natural striations (called the Widmanstätten pattern) to pop, but also gives it a black finish that pairs wonderfully with the black ceramic case and bracelet.

Once you add in the fact that the dial is machined from a solid piece of meteorite, including the carved-out and faceted date window, the Dark Matter dial becomes the most technically demanding dial Cadranor has produced for the collection so far.

The dial is finished off with a handset and applied indices in gunmetal, infilled with BGW9, while the rest of the specs are the same as you’ll find throughout the Essence Ceramica collection: a 41mm case, 100m of water resistance, sapphire crystals front and back, and a COSC-certified Soprod Newton P092 automatic movement.

Close-up of a textured black watch dial with silver hour markers, date window showing "8," and text "ESSENCE CHRONOMETER" and "SWISS MADE.
The meteorite dial features a dark-nickel electroplating treatment, giving it a striking black finish.
Formex

Pricing and availability

This is, unequivocally, the best version of the Essence Ceramica yet, which by default probably makes it the best watch Formex has ever made. I didn’t love the skeletonized dials of the original Essence Ceramica, and the colored dials that followed are nice but standard fare from Formex. But this dark-nickel-treated meteorite?

It looks awesome, feels special and really ties together the stealthy, badass look of the rest of the watch. What’s more, whoever comes up with the watch names at Formex needs a raise. First, we had the Space Ghost, and now the Dark Matter? Come on. Watch names don’t get any cooler than that.

As for the price, this is one of the most expensive Formex watches to date, but it remains an industry-leading bargain considering the level of machining, engineering and finishing on display. The watch is priced at $4,290, which, thanks to Formex’s all-in pricing model, includes all duties, shipping and even the dreaded tariffs.

The Dark Matter isn’t a limited edition, but it is limited in production, with just 100 watches being made per year. The first batch will ship out in mid-January.

Black ceramic Formex Essence Chronometer watch with textured dark gray dial and date window at 6 o'clock.Formex

Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter

Specs

Case Size 41mm
Movement Soprod Cal. Newton P092 automatic
Water Resistance 100m

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