A Renowned Tactical Brand’s Affordable New Dive Watch Has Deep Military Roots

Prometheus Design Werx tapped a genuine military watchmaker for this formidable, budget-friendly automatic diver.

Close-up of a black dive watch face with luminous markers and hands, orange second hand, and green fabric strap with orange stripe.Prometheus Design Werx

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Prometheus Design Werx is a significant name in the EDC and tactical spaces. The brand specializes in incredibly formidable equipment of all types, including everyday carry, bags and packs, apparel and much more.

But even for PDW, the brand’s latest project is pretty special (and somewhat unusual).

The PDW SPD x HGP Diver 200M Automatic is a robust, stunning and surprisingly affordable adventure-ready timepiece with a deep connection to military history.

Diver watch with black dial, luminous markers, and green fabric strap with orange stripe, attached to a compass.
With its strap-mounted compass, this timepiece is a navigational superstar, ideal for outdoor adventure.
Prometheus Design Werx

In the Navy

For this watch, PDW tapped Hommes Grenouilles de Paris, a French dive shop that outfitted the French Navy’s Nageurs de Combat (Combat Swimmers) from the 1970s through the 1990s, including dive watches. (For reference, the brand went defunct but was resurrected in 2023.)

This watch actually has a connection to the French dive shop’s history, as it utilizes the very same original Monnin case architecture. It’s also assembled near Besançon, in the Franche-Comté (the historic center of French watchmaking, where the original cases were produced).

Black dive watch with a rotating bezel and green fabric strap worn on a wrist in a black wetsuit.
The strap is stretchy, making it easier to put over a wetsuit, should you choose to take it diving.
Prometheus Design Werx

Today, HGP’s watches are still used by French military personnel, including the GIGN and French Legionnaires. This particular watch is based on HGP’s Commando Diver 200M.

What that should tell you is that it is already a robust and capable outdoor watch with an impressive tactical pedigree. And yet, PDW has taken that base timepiece and improved it in crucial ways, making it even more adept and impressive.

Diver watch with glowing green markers and hands, black fabric strap with orange stitching, and attached compass.
The lume, made up of seven layers of Swiss Super-LumiNova C3, on the dial, hands and bezel is incredibly vibrant.
Prometheus Design Werx

Dive, dive, dive!

The 42-millimeter case is made of classic 316L stainless steel, one of the most widely used materials for watch cases, especially when durability is a necessity. It also features a screw-down caseback and crown, and the whole package is rated to depths of up to 200 meters, making it a true diver.

Above the dial sits a flat sapphire crystal with an antireflective coating. And even the dial itself is special, crafted from black-finished brass and emblazoned with the brand’s Kraken Trident icon just below the 12 o’clock marker.

Below that, it boasts a reliable, durable, dependable Seiko NH35 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve and hacking seconds functionality (all painstakingly looked over in-house by HGP before leaving France).

Person in black wetsuit top and brown shorts holding black diving fins and adjusting black diving mask while standing in shallow water.
This is a genuine diver, designed specifically for the rigors of outdoor aquatic adventure.
Prometheus Design Werx

The dial, skeletonized hands and aluminum-insert rotating dive timer bezel are also finished off with a special seven-layer Swiss Super-LumiNova C3 lume treatment, which is incredibly vibrant and makes for easy reading in even the lowest light conditions.

The whole thing is finished off with a Titanium MNPara hardware stretch nylon PD Ti-FXDS strap, complete with a compass unit (which adds even more outdoor functionality).

And that doesn’t even cover it all. It’s a hell of a package, especially for such a remarkably affordable price.

Black diving glove with a wristwatch and compass strap, splashed with water.
Even sopping wet (or maybe especially sopping wet), this timepiece is a stone-cold stunner.
Prometheus Design Werx

Availability and pricing

The PDW SPD x HGP Diver 200M Automatic is now available on the Prometheus Design Werx site for just $649. However, it is extremely limited and is likely to sell out before you can say “frogman.”

Stainless steel dive watch with black dial and bezel, green fabric strap with orange stitching, and attached compass.Prometheus Design Werx

PDW SPD x HGP Diver 200M Automatic

Specs

Case Size 42mm
Movement Seiko NH35 (automatic)
Water Resistance 200m

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