Tudor’s Black Bay GMT Gets a Subtle but Slick Makeover

The watch is Tudor’s first-ever three-way collab.

Stainless steel Tudor wristwatch with black dial, red-tipped GMT hand, and blue bezel with white numerals.Phantaci/Tudor/Undefeated

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While Tudor collaborates with other brands more frequently than its older sibling Rolex, the brand still rarely allows anyone else to add their name to one of its watches.

But this holiday season, Tudor is apparently feeling generous. Not only did Tudor collaborate with another brand on a special limited edition of its Black Bay GMT, but it collaborated with two brands, making this Tudor’s first-ever three-way collaboration.

And before you ask, no, you can’t buy one.

Stainless steel Tudor wristwatch with black dial, red and blue bezel, and date display at 3 o'clock.
Tudor joined forces with both Undefeated and Jay Chou’s Phantaci for this “Friends & Family” edition GMT.
Phantaci/Tudor/Undefeated

One Tudor, three ways

Just as Tudor did with its 2023 Black Bay 58 collab with Rowing Blazers, the only changes made to this Black Bay GMT compared to the standard model are the custom dial text at 6:00 and an engraved caseback. Although these changes are subtle, they change the character of the watch just enough to make it something new — and highly desirable.

The dial text features the brand names of Tudor’s two collaborators: Phantaci, the fashion label co-founded by Taiwanese singer and actor Jay Chou, one of Tudor’s biggest global ambassadors, and Undefeated, the LA-based streetwear brand and rare sneaker retailer.

Each brand name is written on its own line in gold print, standing out from the rest of the monochrome dial. Below them are some Chinese characters in white, which, according to Google, translate to “World Time Machine” — quite fitting for a GMT.

Stainless steel Tudor wristwatch with black and red bezel and black dial on a wrist.
Jay Chou models the watch on his Instagram account.
Jay Chou on Instagram

The only other change is found on the reverse side of the watch. Like Rolex, Tudor typically leaves the casebacks of its watches blank. One the one hand, this is pretty boring, but the benefit is that it makes them great for engraving.

Here, the normally sterile caseback of the Black Bay GMT has been given a black laser engraving showing a pattern resembling an atom with the three logos of Tudor, Undefeated and Phantaci as its nucleus. In the center, the engraving also features the limited edition number of the watch out of 99.

Everything else about the GMT — the 41mm stainless steel case and rivet-style bracelet, 200m water resistance and Tudor Manufacture Calibre MT5652 automatic “flyer” GMT movement — remains unchanged.

Back of a silver stainless steel watch case with black atomic design and logos, numbered 01/99.
The caseback, normally blank, features an engraving with all three brands’ logos.
Phantaci/Tudor/Undefeated

Pricing and availability

These sorts of rare and unique collabs from Rolex and Tudor have a tendency to become future collectors’ items — just look at the classic Rolex Domino’s watches for proof.

I see no reason why the case won’t be the same for the Phantaci x Undefeated x Tudor Black Bay GMT, especially given the watch’s rarity.

It’s limited to just 99 pieces, making it one of the rarest Tudor watches ever. What’s more, the watch isn’t even being made available to the public — it’s strictly for “friends and family” of the three involved brands. As such, there is no retail price.

Stainless steel Tudor wristwatch with black dial, red and blue bezel, and metal link bracelet.Phantaci/Tudor/Undefeated

Phantaci x Undefeated x Tudor Black Bay GMT

Specs

Case Size 41mm
Movement Tudor Cal. MT5652 automatic GMT
Water Resistance 200m

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