Seiko’s Surprising New Watch Turns Back the Clock to the Brand’s Very First Creation

The Timekeeper returns.

Close-up of a gold-tone Seiko Presage watch with white dial, black Roman numerals, and a ridged crown.Seiko

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Seiko never turns down an opportunity to celebrate an anniversary.

The Japanese giant spent 2023 celebrating the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, the Laurel. The following year, Seiko had another year-long birthday party, this time marking 100 years of the Seiko name.

2026 once again finds Seiko in a celebratory mood, with the brand kicking off the new year with a quartet of watches honoring Seiko’s true beginning as a company in 1881.

The 145th anniversary collection consists of four watches so far, two of which we’ve already covered here and here. But the most unique has to be the Presage SPB538, as it takes direct inspiration from the very first watch ever made by the brand: the Timekeeper.

Gold-tone Seiko Presage watch with white dial, black Roman numerals, and brown leather strap.
Seiko is celebrating another anniversary in 2026, this one arguably its most significant yet.
Seiko

Keep time

Seiko’s history began not as a watchmaker, but as a watch shop called K. Hattori & Co, opened by brand founder Kintaro Hattori in Tokyo in 1881. That shop eventually led to Hattori opening the Seikosha Factory in 1892, and three years later, in 1895, said factory had produced its first watch: the Timekeeper.

A pocket watch with a white dial sporting thin black printed Roman numeral hour markers and equipped with a cylinder escapement, the Timekeeper was the first creation of Seiko’s ongoing 130-year watchmaking journey that has led to the company becoming one of the largest, most beloved and most consequential watch brands in the world.

Antique silver pocket watch with white face, black Roman numerals, and "TIME KEEPER" text on a textured white surface.
The Timekeeper, Seiko’s first-ever watch from 130 years ago.
Seiko

The new Presage SPB538 takes direct aesthetic inspiration from the Timekeeper, with a white enamel dial and elegant printed black Roman numeral hour markers that echo the pocket watch’s 19th-century look.

The oversized onion crown and matching knurling on the bezel also match the look of the antique pocket watch, as do the spade-shaped hour hand and leaf minute hand.

But there are some notable differences between the new watch and the Timekeeper, beyond one being a wristwatch and the other a pocket watch.

Gold Seiko Presage watch with white dial, black Roman numerals, and brown leather strap.
The soft-white enamel dial is the main highlight of the new anniversary model.
Seiko

For one, the SPB538 has a central seconds hand instead of a small seconds display. It’s also powered by an automatic movement: Seiko’s Caliber 6R51, which has a power reserve of three days.

The SPB538’s case is in stainless steel with a gold-tone finish, and it’s decidedly compact, measuring just 35mm across, 12.3mm tall (which includes the AR-coated box sapphire crystal) and a minuscule 37mm lug-to-lug.

The lugs also boast a rarely seen movable design that recalls early 20th-century pocket watch conversions. It works well in unison with the included pull-through brown leather strap, but you’re going to have a hard time finding a third-party strap for this thing, as the lug width is just 11mm.

Gold round wristwatch with white dial and Roman numerals on a brown leather strap worn with a checkered blazer.
Seiko is pitching the demure 35mm SPB538 as a unisex watch.
Seiko

Pricing and availability

I think out of all of Seiko’s 145th Anniversary releases, the Presage SPB538 is the most interesting. It’s the only one that isn’t just a special edition of an existing watch, and its enamel dial is quite beautiful. Paired with the compact gold-toned case and knurled bezel, this is one of the most elegant watches you can currently purchase from the Japanese watchmaker.

Like all of the other watches in Seiko’s new 145th Anniversary collection, the SPB538 is a limited edition, with 1,450 examples being produced. It’s priced at $1,900 and is set to go on sale in February.

Gold-tone Seiko Presage watch with white dial, black Roman numerals, and dark brown leather strap.Seiko

Seiko Presage SPB538

Specs

Case Size 35mm
Movement Seiko Cal. 6R51 automatic
Water Resistance 50m

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