One of the Most Underrated Dive Watches Gets Better … and More Affordable

It’s getting harder to ignore.

Close-up of a stainless steel watch with a blue sunburst dial, silver hour markers, and a navy fabric strap on an orange background.Jaeger-LeCoultre

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If you’re a watch enthusiast or collector, then you’re likely familiar with all of the heavy hitters in the crowded luxury dive watch space.

The Rolex Submariner. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Tudor Black Bay. Then there are those luxury dive watches that fly a bit more under the radar, like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date.

JLC’s entry-level sporty dive watch is overshadowed by the brand’s flagship Reverso dress watch, but it shouldn’t be slept on. Its combination of bar-raising dial finishing, an evolved retro design and an impressive movement all add up to a serious contender for your dive watch dollars.

Especially now, as JLC has just made some major improvements to its diver … while also slashing its price considerably.

Silver Jaeger-LeCoultre watch with blue dial and fabric strap on reflective surface.
JLC’s under-the-radar diver just got a lot harder to ignore.
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Save the Date

First things first, JLC has not thrown the baby out with the bathwater for its latest incarnation of the Polaris Date. In fact, you’d be hard-pressed to even find the difference between the new model and the older version unless you had them both in your hand at the same time.

That’s because the only thing that’s really changed here is the case size. Previously only available as a relatively oversized 42mm watch with a beefy thickness of 13.92mm, JLC has managed to shrink down the Polaris Date substantially without sacrificing anything.

The new Polaris Date measures just 40mm across, and just as importantly, clocks in at a decidedly slimmer 12.9mm. For those keeping score at home, that’s a reduction of 2mm in diameter and 1mm in thickness, admittedly small numbers that add up to a big difference on the wrist.

Side view of a silver stainless steel watch case with two crowns and a navy blue fabric strap on an orange background.
The new case measures 40mm across and just 12.9mm thick.
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Outside of the improved dimensions, the watch is basically the same as before. It’s powered by the same in-house JLC Calibre 899 automatic movement, which has a 70-hour power reserve and is beautifully decorated, all visible behind a sapphire caseback.

The dual-crown stainless steel case retains its 200m water-resistance rating, while the box sapphire crystal still sits above the most intricate dive watch dial in the biz.

The triple-finished blue dial combines an opaline inner rotating bezel, a grained index circle housing a mix of applied trapezoids and Arabic numerals, and a sunray-brushed center. It boasts a whopping 42 layers of lacquer, all of which are applied and polished by hand for an unbelievably intricate finish.

Close-up of a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch face with silver hands, blue textured dial, and date window showing 18.
The triple-finished lacquered dial remains intact on the smaller new Polaris Date.
Jaeger-LeCoultre

An unframed date window is positioned at 3:00, and the indices, skeletonized handset and orange triangle bezel pip are all filled with Super-LumiNova.

Outside of the new case size, the only other change to the product is the included strap. In place of the Clous-de-Paris-patterned blue rubber strap found on the 42mm version, the 40 comes with a blue canvas strap, which may be viewed as an upgrade depending on your tastes. Like the rubber strap, it’s equipped with quick-release spring bars and a steel deployant clasp.

Back view of a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch with visible mechanical movement and black leather strap on an orange background.
The rubber strap of the larger version has been exchanged for a blue canvas strap.
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Availability and pricing

OK, I lied. There’s another update to the new Polaris Date outside of the improved case dimensions and the new strap, and that’s the price.

For some reason, the new 40mm watch is far more affordable than its 42mm predecessor, to the tune of $2,700 cheaper. That’s a huge discount for what is effectively the same watch, but with a case that most people will likely prefer.

JLC has received loads of criticism in recent years for substantially raising its prices, so this update is very, very pleasant to see. The new Polaris Date is available now from Jaeger-LeCoultre for $10,400, representing significant savings over the Polaris Date 42’s current SRP of $13,100.

Round stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre watch with blue textured dial and navy fabric strap.Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date 40mm

Specs

Case Size 40mm
Movement Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal. 899 automatic
Water Resistance 200m

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